|I offer this information for the do-it-yourselfers who want a box for at home or are beginning a team. If you have any questions, drop me an email and I'll do my best to answer them. If there are enough requests for additional information I will do a detailed construction plan write-up.|
|This is one of the boxes we are currently using in practice and competition. The box is functional and economical. The cost of the material is about $100.00 but if the time to make it is factored in construction costs would be around $400.00. All parts are available at hardware or CTC stores. Although we have only been using this two hole design for six months I will start construction on the next generation in July. I plan a three hole box with the center hole for medium and small balls and a more acute pedal angle. I will also be ordering custom latches for it.|
|Although you can't see it, there is a blue material between the matting covering the pedal and the pedal. This is sleeping pad foam from CTC, a large sheet runs less than $20. Thanks to our teammate Peter Perry for that information.||Dimensions: width 24 inches; depth including the box loader stand is about 30 inches; height 18 inches. Pedal angle is 45 degrees. The sides, base, top and face are made from 0.5 inch spruce plywood. The back plates are 1" X 12" pine. Fasteners - various length drywall screws.|
|The picture at the right shows a close up of the inside of a ball tube made from 3.5" PVC. The brackets are fastened to be back plate with screws and the hammer material can be seen to be 1" plywood which is also the pedal material. The hammer slot in the ball tube was cut with a jigsaw on slow speed and extends to about an inch from the end of the tube - no ball can remain in the box once triggered. The ball tube is fastened to the brackets with bolts. I use the brackets as templates for marking the holes.|
|After a few months of use this box is in need of another coat of paint, but aesthetics aside it performs its function. The inside braces here are necessary because of the light plywood used to construct the box, (because that was what I had at hand). Note that the back plate is at an angle, (equal to the pedal angle). This eases construction and allows a more even pressure to be applied to the catch latches which lowers stress on them and increases their useful life.|
|Note the screw-in eyebolts securing the turnbuckles that are attached to the hammer springs. Note also the heads of the bolts that hold the inside hardware in place.|
|This picture was taken from above and shows the inside
mechanism of the box. Two L brackets hold each hammer in place and
each hammer has a screw-in eyebolt to provide a spring attachment
point. The latches and catches are standard issue from CTC. I
have had only one of these fail in the two years we have been using them
in one and two hole boxes but I recommend having a spare box ready if this
is what you are using in a tournament. Murphy's law, right?
The 0.5" pedal hold off springs are set in holes drilled in standard
2" X 2" and I use a long drywall screw through the piece of
2" X 2" and hole to fasten the spring in and the spring can be
turned in and out on the screw to adjust the pedal stand off distance.
The very dark top of the picture is the edge of the pedal. The unfinished wood attached to it is a continuous piece of 2" X 4" that acts as the striker for both hammer latches.